Itinerary: Vancouver-Ketchikan-Juneau-Skagway-Glacier
Bay-College Fjord-Whittier-Denali-Talkeetna-Anchorage
If you're reading this then you may be debating whether or not
to take this cruise. Sea Dawg says you should because it promises
to be among the most scenic of cruises available. Compare to
discover how this is not the same as an inside passage cruise. Or
you may have already booked and now you might be wondering whether
or not you messed up. Sea Dawg predicts this is the cruise you'll
want to take again. Princess is the cruise industry leader in
Alaska.
Or you might be hoping to learn a few things from a salty dawg.
Sea Dawg will try to do just that. Is Sea Dawg critical? You
betcha. I call it like I see it. Criticism, if any, should not be
equated with dislike of cruises. You should know ahead that I am an
ex-Loyal Royal Caribbean diamond member.
ARRIVAL: Since we had a long flight to Vancouver we decided to
arrive a day early and rode the free shuttle to our hotel. We
toured this beautiful city via the subway interestingly named
Sky Train. A main hub is Waterpark - very near the cruise ship
port. We took the hop on/hop off trolley tour of Vancouver and
especially recommend at least a drive through Stanley Park. We
caught our hotel shuttle back to the airport to connect with the
Princess shuttle to the port terminal.
EMBARKATION: We arrived at the terminal after 1pm and following
the initial noon check-in crush. Prior online check-in expedited
our process. Most dawgs knew to have their passports, travel
documents, completed forms and credit card in hand as we were
herded through security screenings then customs then Princess
check-in. What threatened to be a hour long test of patience took
less than 15 minutes we had our Cruise Card and packets and we were
aboard. We have never experienced a more organized and efficient
boarding process.
PHOTOGRAPHS: Photographers will greet you throughout the cruise.
You should know in advance that these photographs are not
complimentary or cheap. But you are not obligated to buy. If
interested, stop and pose. If not, say, "no thanks" and be on your
way. Sea Dawg has experienced a few times when photos go on sale or
can be bargained down in price near the end of the cruise.
WELCOME ABOARD: Island Princess, (2003), mid-size class (92,000
tons - 964 ft. length) shows few signs of anticipated wear and
tear. The interior is sleek and sophisticated. The ship has a
welcomed intimacy without the overcrowded feeling. Sea Dawg's
megaship experiences have been bigger is not always better. Most
appealing to me was the quality of life aboard the Island Princess.
Gone were the incessant "Bingo Time" and swimming pool water
temperature announcements. I was aboard to experience Alaska, and
Princess offered cruise dawgs a series of outstanding programs from
naturalists, park rangers and an Iditarod race winner. In place of
barmaids constantly hustling drinks by the pool, we had a crew lady
politely offering warm cookies. Rather than a long hike aft, fresh
pizza and hot sandwich venues were convenient to the pools and
lounge areas.
You may have learned that sodas and alcoholic drinks are
available for a price. But on Princess you are allowed to bring
your own sodas aboard, but not alcohol. And on Princess you don't
need an overpriced beverage card to receive fruit or vegetable
juices! Thank you Princess! RCCL will nickel & dime dawgs at
every turn and the cruise ends up more expensive than Princess.
CABIN: This is one cruise dawgs WILL want a balcony. Most
cruises offer horizons of ocean for views at sea, but this cruise
offers mountain and wildlife scenary almost everyday so bring good
binoculars. Sea Dawg recommends selecting starboard (right) odd
numbered cabins for northbound and port (left) even numbered cabins
southbound. Order room service and brunch on your private balcony.
We are not ones to spend much time in the stateroom. Our stateroom
was small but efficient. Two people had to choreograph moves to
navigate the tiny floor space. One person standing in front of the
closet could be caged in if another opened the bathroom door. The
bathroom was something like an airplane restroom with a tight
don't-drop-the-soap shower. Sorry, no bathtub except in suites. Sea
Dawg says it is a good idea to pack your own soap and specialty
shampoo. Be forewarned - hot water might be in short supply during
peak shower usage times. We find that we keep a small stateroom
neater than a larger one - have to or else the accumulated clutter
immobilizes us.
A Day 1 Princess Patter listed all the ongoing activities,
information and suggestions. The lifeboat muster station location
is posted. Take but do not wear life jackets to the mandatory
muster drill. Muts need to be warned not to skip drill because
staff is checking your name on their roll.
AROUND THE SHIP: Take time to explore the ship. If you have
time, try to locate places where events happen. My advice is start
at the top Sports Deck 15 and work down using the stairs. You
should at least know where the medical facility is (Deck 4). You
might want to inquire if your medical insurance covers you - in
most cases it won't.
Sun Deck 15 is open to the sky, makes a good observation deck,
and is surrounded by blue tinted glass wind screens. But camera
hounds needing clear vistas were challenged here. You'll find the
Cyber-Golf simulator midship.
Lido Deck 14 is home to Horizon Court and the pools. Horizon
Court is the Deck 14 buffet restaurant offering panoramic views
forward. You can also spot chow hounds loading plates like they're
about to be stranded on Mt. McKinley for a month - only to eat half
of it. And few appreciate line crashing hyenas who snatch away all
the remaining servings forcing those whose mothers taught them
better to wait until another tray arrives from the kitchen.
Incredibly, I witnessed one Saint Bernard actually pick up the
entire serving tray of pastries and arrogantly haul it to his
table! Deck 14 is home to the open Lido Pool and enclosed Lotus
Pool. Locate the ice cream bar. Chow hounds know to get cones and
milkshakes here! The Lotus spa and gym is here. Astern is the
Sanctuary, a retreat for adults that is a perk for pedigrees,
available for a fee to hounds.
Aloha Deck 12 (there is no Deck identified 13) is primarily a
cabin deck, but the Sanctuary and Youth Centers are astern.
Baja Deck 11, Caribe Deck 10, Dolphin Deck 9 and Emerald Deck 8
are cabin decks. Outside cabins mid-deck 8 have obstructed (by
lifeboats) views though fortunate dawgs taking shoulder season
cruises may get upgraded if space is available. The Library, Card
Room and internet cafe is on Deck 8 at the top of the atrium.
Promenade Deck 7 is the main activity deck. As the name implies,
this is the strolling deck. It's poor design is quite apparant as
you stroll through a narrow hallway forward. Dawgs debating
selecting a deck 8 cabin should anticipate noise coming from below.
The Wheelhouse Bar and Crooner's Bar are here. There are two
theaters that make for packed audiences: the upper levels of the
Princess Theater forward and Universe Lounge stage aft. Two premium
restaurants, Sabatini's and the Bayou Cafe are well worth your
consideration. The art gallery is worth a look but sharp dawgs know
to compare print prices online before purchasing.
Fiesta Deck 6 features Provence (traditional) Main Dining, the
Casino, Explorer's Lounge, specialty shops, photo shop, and lower
levels of the theaters.
The main dining room, has two levels: Bordeaux (anytime) Deck 5
and Provence Deck 6. Sea Dawg prefers traditional because the wait
staff learns your preferences and can better prepare for your
pleasant dining experience. At this time of year, the sun goes down
late so there's not much advantage to early or late seating.
As for shopping aboard, think of pricey little shops at upscale
hotels and you'll have the right idea. Resist the temptation and
don't pay "retail" early in the cruise. There are usually "sales"
throughout the cruise and a few good values might be found.
Thoughtful design permits dawgs to traverse Deck 6 fore to aft
without obligatory navigation through the Casino. By far the
largest cash intake comes from the gaming. House odds are higher
aboard than at Las Vegas. In other words, there are greater odds
you will lose. So consider money lost gambling the cost of
entertainment. To that end there are free gaming lessons offered.
Be careful, the ATM machine is here, too.
Plaza Deck 5 is where Passenger Services, Tour Desk and Future
Cruise Sales are located. Some cabins are located aft. Curiously
and inconveniently, the Atrium elevators do not left all the way to
the top decks. Our cruise was not fully booked, so we were pleased
few experienced long waits for an elevator. Even so, we found the
stairs quicker at peak times. The majority of passengers were
mature dawgs 50 years up. School was still in session and there
weren't many pups or frisky college canines. Not to worry, we had
our share of incredibly rude, line crashing, seat saving Japanese
Shiba Inus aboard.
DINNER: I've read some Cruise Critics comments from Pedigrees
about dinners and I have to reply that it is completely unrealistic
to expect 5-star dinners at Princess' moderate prices. Sea Dawg
found the quality and quantity of the prepared food consistently
very good. No, it's not the best culinary offerings the cruise
industry has to offer. - and while some other cruise lines lower
qulity to drive patrons into premium restuarants, Princess still
serves lobster. Pedigrees who want 5-star cuisine should book
luxury cruise lines and pay their premium prices. For the rest of
us, this is a chance to sample cuisine we don't often enjoy. If
it's not to your liking, your waiter will bring you something else.
Chow hounds can order a second entrée if they like. I
feasted on duck, lamb, veal, salmon and prime rib. And, yes, you
could order steak or shrimp cocktail every night. Vegetarian,
"lite" and Asian offerings were usually available.
Dinners are an event that Sea Dawg doesn't like to rush. If you
are in a hurry, do your tablemates and waiters a favor and eat at
Horizon Court. If you want to know the chef's secrets, you can
purchase the recipes. Waiters come from all over the world. Their
English proficiency varies but is generally merely functional. Most
try very hard to please you and really do earn their tips. Wit and
humor were in ample supply at our table and any pretense of
formality fortunately disappeared the first night. Dinnertime
became an enjoyable highlight of this cruise.
Dancing Under the Stars: Romantic sounding isn't it? Weather
dictates outside activities aboard. Unfortunately, on this cruise
there were only limited opportunities in the clubs for romantic
dancing and dance floors are small. Dances advertised as "ball
room" were mostly loud rock or jazz. Never learned how to dance?
There are free ballroom dance classes available. Our instructors
were excellent and attentive.
Weather: Fortunately our cruise experienced mostly fair weather.
This is Alaska and cloudy, rainy days are normal. Mornings are
chilly and afternoons can get almost hot. Dressing in layers is
necessary. Dawgs, especially shoulder season cruisers, are wise to
pack hooded water-proof jackets. But also pack swim suits (for hot
tubs) and sunglasses (for snow glare).
Day 1 - Vancouver If you've never seen Vancouver don't miss this
opportunity. We arrived a day early to tour this beautiful city.
See Cruise Critic port reviews. Once aboard, plan to take part in
the sailaway party. If you pre-reserved shore excursions online,
your tickets should be in or shortly delivered to your
stateroom.
Day 2 - At Sea This usually means out in the open water with
nothing but waves and ocean horizon in view. Island Princess
transits the Straight of Georgia along the scenic coast of
Vancouver Island then heads across Queen Charlotte Sound.
The Shows Current and classic movies are shown on the outdoor
big screen overlooking the Lido Pool. There are two venues for
stage shows, but limited seating. The Princess productions proved
to be better than theme park shows. To their credit, the shows were
performed live to music provided by a live band. However the sound
tech preferred the volume loud and distorted. Headliner guests were
hit and miss. Your cruise will probably feature different
entertainers. Few presentations had show dawgs streaming out the
exits mid performance.
Tonight was the first of two formal nights in main dining. Some
pedigrees were dressed to the nines, but most wore their "Sunday
best". A word about expensive jewelry and valuables. Leave them at
home! There are personal safes in the cabin, but a master code to
open them is known to more than a few. Sharp dawgs use the ship
safe available through Passenger Relations to store truly valuable
items. New U.S. federal law mandates the FBI be promptly contacted
to investigate serious shipboard crimes for all ships that
enter/depart any U.S. port.
Day 3 - Ketchikan I was up early and watched the ship navigate
the Tongass Narrows toward Ketchikan. At first I thought I was in
the Caribbean! Salty Dawgs promptly growled at the immediate
presence of Carnival's and Royal Caribbean's Diamonds
International, Tanzanite International and other cruiseline venues.
But this is America and local retailers exercised their right to
advertise they are independent of the cruise lines!
The Misty Fjords & Wildlife Explorer excursion is deservedly
popular. Independent dawgs should stop by the Ketchikan Visitor's
Bureau near the ship and pick up a free walking tour map. Hop a
ride on their free shuttle and ride up the hillside to the Totem
Heritage Center and walk downhill on Creek Street or on Married
Man's Trail along Ketchikan Creek on down to Dolly's.
A word about shopping: make your shopping list before you leave
home. Too often dawgs purchase items on a cruise destined for a
yard sale. Record the local or internet price so you'll know
whether you are getting a bargain. U.S. citizens who booked flights
on a Canadian airline should bone up on custom limitations before
you leave or you might find yourself in the dawghouse.
All dawgs had to be onboard by 1:30pm for an early afternoon
departure. Unless you are on a Princess Shore Excursion the ship
will not wait for stray dawgs! The ship sailed north through scenic
Clarence Straight.
Day 4 - Juneau Juneau is reached by sailing up and down the
Gastineau Channel. The ship arrives at 8am and departs at 8:30pm
and the sun is up longer as we reach higher latitudes. So plan a
full day ashore. The Whale Watching and Wildlife Quest (guaranteed
sightings) is highly recommended and fills quickly. Independent
dawgs will be rewarded to take the "blue" Glacier Express bus from
the Visitor Center parking lot to enjoy at their own pace
Mendenhall Glacier, the lake and huge waterfall! It was only $16
(sixteen) round trip and rates as one of the great values of the
entire cruise. The bus driver can tell you about some other value
excursions their independent company offers. And what dawg would
miss the infamous Red Dog Saloon? Yes it's a tourist trap but a
howling good time!
Day 5 - Skagway Skayway is reached by sailing up and down scenic
Taiya Inlet and Lynn Canal. Snow-capped peaks and numerous
cascading waterfalls reward watchful dawgs on a fair weather day.
Our ship arrived at the railroad dock near 7am and departed near
8pm on this last port of call before reaching Whittier. The little
town of Skagway exists because of the railroad and any of the White
Pass & Yukon Route narrow guage train ride tours takes you to
heaven and is highly recommended. Another way to be taken to heaven
is to stop by the Red Onion Saloon.
Day 6 - At Sea "At Sea" would technically be correct. But this
is Alaska and Princess arranges to be one of only two cruise ships
allowed to enter Glacier Bay National Park a day. "Scenic day
Cruising Glacier Bay" is an understatement. Remember to charge up
(or put in fresh) camera batteries! Several NP Rangers provide
commentary as the ship slowly sails past towering snow covered
mountains and through ice strewn Tarr Inlet to the foot of Grand
Pacific and Margerie Glaciers. About every twenty minutes there is
the sharp crack and thunder heralding another calving. Then the
ship sailed up John Hopkins Inlet and rounded Jaw (as in jaw
dropping) Point to view John Hopkins Glacier. We were truly blessed
to have incredibly clear and sunny weather! Every photo we took
could be a post card.
Tonight was the second of two formal nights in main dining. It
was also lobster with giant prawns night. For Sea Dawg is was a
perfect ending to a perfect day!
Day 7 - At Sea Today we sailed across the Gulf of Alaska toward
College Fjord, and salty dawgs know to anticipate a sea day. The
weather turned cold, windy and rainy. Long but narrow beamed Island
Princess (designed to cross the Panama Canal) gently rolled through
moderate seas. It wasn't so rough that seasick bags for green dawgs
appeared, but dawgs sensitive to motion sickness should be prepared
to medicate before crossing this open expanse of water.
College Fjord was socked in with cloudy weather and some
showers. We could not see the mountaintops but could discern the
beautiful glaciers through the mists.
CHECK OUT: You'll receive a bill for $11.50 ($12.00 if in a
suite) per person/per day gratuity, any shore excursions and any
other expenses you put on your Cruise Card. That's when many
discover their bar tab, purchases, casino gaming and excursions
cost more than the stateroom! Even though we had Express Departure,
we checked our account for charges and accuracy at Passenger
Relations before the crowd formed a long line.
You'll receive a comment card. My thinking is that if you mark
everything "excellent" then Princess will have no incentive to
improve anything. But what most cruise dawgs want to improve is not
even on the comment card. You'll have to write in comments like
"enforce the rules", "need more crew checking Cruise Cards and
attending the Passenger Relations Desk", etc. yourself.
We packed our suitcases and affixed the proper "Meet Us Tonight
in Denali" tags.
Day 8 - DISEMBARKATION and Bus to DENALI We ate a final
breakfast then got to our assigned departure meeting place.
Departure went well. Princess has this well-organized so there
were few rude line-breakers trying to beat the system. I can't
figure out why line-breakers think they're the only ones in a hurry
or why they are more important than anyone else in the scheme of
things.
Post-cruise plans vary. Some catch a flight home from Anchorage.
But most continue north either by train or by bus. We were placed
on a bus and spent the day going up Alaska 3 to Denali. We had high
hopes of seeing some wildlife and maybe a glimpse of the elusive,
cloud shrouded Mt. McKinley along the way. We saw neither. The
harsh reality of the end of the cruise stared back at us as we
looked at the menu prices at the Denali Princess Lodge. The Denali
Princess Lodge is fairly rustic and informed dawgs were glad they
heeded the advice to pack powerful bug repellent. Sunset at
midnight. Sunrise at 3am. No night - just twilight.
Day 9 - Talkeetna The next day we rode the free shuttle to
Denali National and took their free park tour. We saw some wildlife
in the distance but no Mt. McKinley. Here Sea Dawg made a quick
change in plans. Princess had us scheduled to ride the bus from
Denali to Talkeetna, but I decided to buy the inexpensive Alaska
Railroad ticket to ride the Denali Star to Talkeetna instead. I
called Princess from the Denali rail station (right by the Denali
NP Visitor Center) and made arrangements. Princess agreed with
absolutely no hassles to shuttle us to McKinley Wilderness Lodge
along with other Princess passengers on their private cars on the
train. Our luggage would be waiting for us in our room. It was
among the best decisions of the vacation. Though we were
"Adventure" class and not "Gold", Alaska Railroad has several cars
for passengers to use including a dining car and, on our train, a
domed car! Though the rail trip followed the same highway we
traversed the day before it was far superior in scenery and comfort
to the bus trip. We saw a lot of wildlife, some close to the
tracks, but still no Mt. McKinley.
Arrival at Talkeetna Depot happened much too soon. Princess put
us aboard their shuttle to McKinley Wilderness Lodge. We checked
into our room and our luggage was awaiting us inside the door.
How's that for great service? Princess has Alaska cruising and
vacationing buttoned down!
McKinley Wilderness Lodge is so remote it generates its own
electricity. Even so, there are hot tubs with a view here! We found
the 20320 (twenty-three-twenty - named for the height of Mt.
McKinley) Restaurant to be fairly reasonably priced and serving
Alaska sized meals. But be prepared to wait for a table. We made
arrangements for a "Mountain Out" call before we collapsed into
bed.
Day 10 - Anchorage We were sound asleep when the almost midnight
"Mountain is out" call came. We scurried out with bug repellent and
camera in hand to join the sleepy-eyed "30% Club" of tourists who
actually get to see the cloud-free and beautiful Mt. McKinley as
the sun slowly set behind it. We gawked at the mountain in the
comfy chairs of the main lodge until we both were nodding off to
sleep. We retired to bed a second time - another perfect end to
another perfect day.
The sun was high in the sky when we woke up - at 8am. Princess
had us scheduled for a train trip from Talkeetna to Anchorage that
afternoon. After breakfast we affixed "Meet Us in Anchorage" tags
to our luggage and caught the free shuttle to spend the day in tiny
Talkeetna. This is a town that exists on the tourist trade. Locals
know the McKinley Wilderness Lodge prices and charge accordingly.
We found the best priced food in town to be at the Roadhouse that
has catered to mountain climbers for decades.
Soon we were aboard the train in the Princess private domed car
taking a scenic rail to Anchorage. The bottom level of the car is
where the kitchen and dining are located. We spotted numerous moose
in the afternoon, especially as we neared Anchorage. I have to
admit that I preferred Alaska Railroad's Adventure class.
We arrived at the Anchorage Depot and had a 5 minute shuttle to
the Captain Cook Hotel. We opened the door and our luggage was
already there. Our room was an absolutely luxurious suite! Thank
you, Princess! We had an early flight from Anchorage to home.
Princess was there again for us to the very end as a Princess
representative greeted us to bid us farewell as we caught a very
early shuttle to the airport.
Should You Take This Cruise? My recommendation is an unqualified
yes.