The passage of time when I'm on a ship has always been different
than when I'm home. It's slower on a ship. Maybe that's because
there is so much to do, or perhaps it's because I try to slow
things down and savor the moments and memories. A cruise has a
rhythm and at 14 days this cruise is more like a 10K run than a 5
to 7 day cruise which is like a sprint. On a longer cruise I know I
have to pace myself, especially when it comes to food and alcohol
consumption. Such concessions I will gladly make to be at sea. This
was my 22nd cruise (crossings not included) and my 3rd on the
Mercury. In fact, I did the west to east Panama Canal crossing in
1999 on her.
Embarkation Port Everglades in Fort Lauderdale is a sprawling
facility. Seven cruise ships were in port, yet there were no
traffic jams to the actual ships themselves. Once inside the
warehouse sized space it was a slightly different story. Yes,
herding is involved as Celebrity separates the lines for the sign
in by deck number. Some
lines move faster than others, WAY faster. From drop off to
boarding it took an hour. Grade B.
Bugs in the News It's never a good thing to see your ship on two
news stations the day you embark informing you that a norovirus
flare up had sickened 185 passengers on the previous cruise. The
staff and crew of the Mercury conducted a "hard cleaning" of
apparently every surface on the ship which was evidenced by a milky
haze on everything from the floors, tables, chairs, even the walls
within inches of the ceiling. I had to wonder, just how much
touching of the walls above 6 feet really goes on, but I guess the
important thing was breaking the cycle of infection. It appears to
have worked for the most part because on our cruise the number of
passengers infected with norovirus was "insignificant."
Unfortunately, one of those who did get sick was me, which meant I
got to spend a couple of days sequestered in my cabin. I certainly
don't blame the staff, who dutifully squirted disinfectant on your
hands anytime you entered the dining venues, and cleaned the ship
like their lives depended on it. Viruses, be it colds, flu or
norovirus are difficult to contain anywhere people are in close
proximity.
The Ship -- Initial Impressions The Mercury is still a taut
ship, and obviously well cared for. From the outside she is not the
most beautiful ship afloat. With a stub-nosed bow and boxy lines
she is rather homely. On the inside it's a different story. No nine
story atriums here. You'll always know you're on a ship, not a Las
Vegas hotel that happens to have propellers. What it lacks in the
gild and glitz factor it makes up for with functionality and
beautiful interiors of wood and brass. The cabins are clean,
handsome and well designed, although some of the furniture and
fixtures are showing their age. The gripes I have about her from
two previous cruises haven't changed. There is no full promenade
deck and with the exception of the Navigators Lounge and the
Pavilion Nightclub, the other Lounges are essentially thoroughfares
to and from the restaurant. The spaces lack intimacy, although you
can find a quiet nook and cranny here and there. Other than that, I
love the ship. Grade B+.
Fellow Passengers A bit of everything and everyone from a
newborn baby to the elderly being put ashore on stretchers in the
various ports to be flown home. The nationalities were equally
diverse with many German, U.K., Italian, Asian and French in
addition to the majority of U.S and Canadian passengers. This was
not a party ship, although for the right event, such as the 1950's
sock hop they could pack the lounges late into the night. While
there were a number of first timers, there were also many
passengers with extensive cruise experience. Several had done more
than 60 cruises. Since one of my favorite things to do is chat with
people who love ships and travel, I was in heaven.
The Food For many passengers food is the litmus test of whether
a cruise is a success or failure. From the comments I heard they
were not disappointed.
Dining Room: This is a traditional dining ship with assigned
seating and dinner times of 6pm and 8:30pm. Having the same table
companions for 14 days can be a bit of a risk. If you're lucky, as
I was, you'll share experiences and your tablemates will become an
integral part of your cruise experience. If you're not so
fortunate, by all means ask to have your table changed. It's your
cruise, why eat in awkward icy silence? From appetizers to dessert
the food in the Dining Room was consistently excellent. Yes, there
was an entrée that didn't quite measure up here and there,
but that was the exception. The service at my table was nothing
short of phenomenal the entire cruise. Food Grade A Service A+.
Buffets: The Palm Springs Café on the Lido level is the
buffet venue. Unlike newer ships where everything is in specialty
stations, the Mercury relies on four main stations that serve
pretty much the same thing. In all honesty, I now prefer this
arrangement so I don't have to trudge around trying to get a
complete meal. For breakfast there is a good selection of the usual
fare. Make sure to check out the pancake/waffle station in the rear
pool area. Of special note, the coffee is fresh brewed and actually
very good. The rotating theme selections for lunch (Italian,
Mexican, etc.) could be a bit heavy handed, although they have a
very respectable salad bar, individually prepared Caesar salads,
made to order sandwiches, and wraps of the day. The pizza and pasta
station in the rear pool area was very good as was the burger and
hot dog bar in the main pool area.
The layout of the Palm Springs Café is open and inviting
with plentiful seating along the floor to ceiling windows on both
sides of the ship. The staff was always looking to assist
passengers with mobility issues with their trays. This is a gesture
I really like and another example of the Mercury's culture of
superior service. They also use a section of this venue at night
for casual dining which I did not participate in, but those that
did enjoyed the food and the experience. Food B. Service A.
Activities A full schedule of activities was presented daily.
From trivia to enrichment lectures plus featured entertainment in
the evenings, you'd have to be exceptionally grumpy or antisocial
not to find something you'd enjoy. Grade A.
Cruise Director and Staff The cruise staff performed their jobs
of trivia, bingo, pool games and such and the like adequately, but
when not engaged in their sponsored functions they spent a lot of
time huddled amongst themselves, probably trashing the passengers.
The dancers from the production shows really made an effort to
socialize with the passengers in the lounges at night, which made
the cruise staff's sullenness even more apparent. The cruise
director spoke faster than an auctioneer on diet pills. By day 10
my jaw was clinching every time he launched into one of his "I'M SO
EXCITED" monologues where everything from the gold-by-the-inch sale
to the slot tournament was guaranteed to be a stupendously
magnificent once-in-a-lifetime experience. While not completely
incompetent, nor was he the slightest bit genuine or credible.
Grade C-.
Entertainment Entertainment has never been Celebrity's forte nor
were there any big surprises here. Let's be honest, you will never
get a Broadway or Vegas entertainment experience on any cruise
ship. They don't pay enough to get top tier talent nor are the
facilities big enough for sprawling production numbers. The evening
entertainment in the Showroom rotated between production shows, a
comic, magician, and a "headline" singer. There were no
knock-my-socks-off moments. It's not horrible, nor is it wonderful,
it's just something to do other than drinking, gambling or going to
bed early. With the exception of the Celebrity Orchestra, which was
extremely talented yet strangely underutilized, the other bands and
lounge musical acts had a "oh are you still playing?" quality. The
pool band got on my nerves singing the same songs in the same
order, in the same way, day after day. Finally, I fled to the upper
decks in the stern for a little quiet time during lunch. Grade
C.
The Panama Canal You'll get lots of information on the Canal
from one or more of the enrichment lecturers and from a dated but
still relevant documentary you can watch on your stateroom TV. To
clarify some questions that were still being asked the night before
we arrived at the Canal: (1) No, you can't get off the ship. (2)
There are no shore excursions. (3) The transit does take all day,
so pace yourself. What I find amazing is how well 1914 technology
still works today. The Locks are what everyone goes for, but Gatun
Lake and the Gaillard Cut are my favorites. As you enter or leave
the Pacific side you will be greeted with the skyline of Panama
City which invokes images of Hong Kong with its high density
towering skyscrapers that will have you wondering "why didn't I
know that?"
Ports This was a sea day intensive itinerary, which is exactly
why I booked it. An observation is warranted. The more developed
the tourist facilities are onshore the less you have to rely on the
ship's excursions.
Cartagena, Columbia: Was under the weather (meaning locked in my
cabin) and watched the inauguration, so I can't offer any
insight.
Puntarenas, Costa Rica: This is not the lush and green Costa
Rica of the Caribbean side, but sort of the Detroit of the Pacific
side. There is great local trinket shopping along the beach front
park next to the pier, but if you want to see something other than
a dusty rough looking town take one of the ship's excursions as you
have few options onshore. I did the rafting trip on the Corobici
River and absolutely loved it.
Huatulco, Mexico: This is pronounced "WA Tule Co." This port is
a jewel. Not overdeveloped (yet), amazing bays, beaches and
friendly locals. Take a taxi into the town of La Crucecita, it only
costs a couple of bucks, or you can walk there in 20 minutes.
You'll be greeted by a shady town square park, quaint church,
sidewalk restaurants and local arts and crafts. When a better
airport is built that will support flights directly from major
American cities, this place may become an eco friendly version of
Cabo. Is that a good thing?
Acapulco, Mexico: More mega city with mega city issues of
traffic congestion than resort town. The stop is so short that
unless you have never been there before, it's almost "why
bother?"
Cabo: Tender port with a stop from 7am to 3pm, so there's not
much time. More of a California experience than Mexican and any
excursion you can purchase on the ship, you can do better at the
pier. The reason to book a ship excursion here is for priority
disembarkation.
Tipping Now Required As of January 15, 2009 Celebrity now adds
the onboard gratuities to your account. Although they're a little
late to the party, I'm glad they finally made it. The dining room
waiters and room attendants rely on tips for their compensation.
Not to cast aspersions on fellow travelers, but the temptation to
stiff the staff does happen. In the old days when your tablemates
didn't show up on the final night, you (and your waiter) knew what
that meant. It's not their fault that your bar bill was double what
you budgeted. At my table they didn't complain about mandatory
tips, but discussed how much more was appropriate considering the
exceptional level of service.
Cruise Pics and Pans Pick: The Mercury has a culture and
commitment to passenger service that is nothing short of
brilliant.
Pan: The deck party. They spent two days setting up the BBQ in
the main pool area, dragging all the lounges out, replacing them
with the wood furniture from the stern of the ship, and for what?
That the space would be overwhelmed with people within minutes,
staking claim to the tables and dining on second rate BBQ with all
the "fixins" -- even if that meant the same stuff they served in
the Lido at lunch? Unless you like the deck party scene, which is
essentially wandering around asking if this or that seat is taken,
go eat in the dining room which for that night had open seating.
One of my tablemates said it best; we went from the best dinner
(the night before) to the worst.
Pick: Guest lecture enrichment series. Interesting topics,
interesting speakers and definitely worth your time, and because
every cruise is different I won't name the names of the individual
speakers.
Pan: Closing off, wrapping in plastic and resurfacing one half
of the sunning/walking area above the mid ship pool on deck 11
during the aforementioned deck BBQ. It was out of commission for
the rest of the cruise with the plastic snapping, ripping and
generally annoying the passengers in the considerable breeze.
And, in the End ... At the beginning of the cruise I watched
Mercury enter Fort Lauderdale, thinking someone's cruise is ending
as mine was about to begin. The last day out I recalled that
feeling. Even though by now I was ready to go home, I envied them
their upcoming journey. Were there annoyances? Certainly. I have
yet to have the perfect cruise, but the overall cruise experience
was excellent. With the exception of a few individuals, the level
of service on the Mercury was absolutely first rate; the food was
great, my cabin clean and comfortable and the conversations with my
fellow passengers interesting and informative. How do you beat
that?