Once through passport control, diesel buses carried passengers
to the ship, weaving under cranes and through stacks of cargo
containers. Reaching the gangway at last, we entered the ship on
Deck 5 and faced a very long line in the Four Seasons dining room,
where room cards were being issued. As suite guests, my spouse and
I were pulled from this queue and separately checked in by staff in
the lobby area of the Il Adagio restaurant. After taking photos, we
were led to an adjoining room for a one-on-one talk with ship
concierge Karin, who asked if there was anything she could arrange
for us as we settled in. The one request I had – to reserve a
spot in the thermal suite in the spa – was for
naught…despite web postings to the contrary, there is no
thermal suite on board. As Karin explained, "This is an older ship,
and it does not have the amenities you might expect on newer,
larger ships." Indeed.
Ship: The Norwegian Sun, built in 2001, is a smaller vessel that
feels somewhat dated and out-of-touch even though it is relatively
new (perhaps this explains
a planned dry-dock scheduled for fall 2010.) Public areas are small
and a bit on the claustrophobic side, and the awkward deck layout,
which is configured around a giant central kitchen area on deck 5,
prevents easy walking from venues located at opposite ends of the
ship. The atrium features four "Panoramic Elevators" that, after
leaving decks 5, 6 and 7, travel the remainder of their journey
inside a white tube – hardly "panoramic" at all. There are
many rust spots all over the exterior decks of the vessel that are
in need of painting, and plastic flowers and Papier Mache rocks
abound – no fresh flowers were to be seen. The daily
newsletter is laughable – frequent misspellings, incorrect
information, and page after page devoted to getting you to spend
money on jewels, artwork, massages and excursions. I know these
elements are part of the cruise line revenue stream, but honestly,
NCL goes above and beyond any acceptable levels of advertising when
6 front-and-back insert pages are spent trying to pry your money
from your pocket. Separately, the passenger composition on this
South American itinerary was largely comprised of travelers from
France, Germany and Latin America, and as a result, I observed
willful disregard for the rule against smoking in individual cabins
and public areas despite admonishments from the crew. Indeed, when
walking down the halls of decks 9 and 10, the cigarette smoke
coming from cabins was so thick that it would make me cough out
loud. I saw several cases of plumbing problems – for example,
on embarkation day inside cabins 0129 and 0329 were flooded so
badly with sewage that carpets were pulled up, odorizer was
sprinkled on floors and giant fans were in place for at least 2
straight days.
Serious customer service issues exist on this ship. Bartenders
and bar staff are competent and friendly (especially Marvin in the
Observation Lounge), but much of the food service team seems to be
preoccupied with socializing with each other – when
interrupted from this pastime they are often surly and occasionally
downright rude. When we got up to take a look at a breakfast fruit
buffet in the Four Seasons main dining room, one server admonished
us to sit down immediately and barked, "Let us do our job and you
do yours!" During the mandatory lifeboat muster, our station leader
- an onboard entertainer named Alan - practiced his dance steps
while the drill took place. At the same time his station partner
informed us, "Remember you are at Muster Station R. You know what
Station R stands for? R is for rich. Like you." (Presumably because
this station is a meeting point for suite guests.)
On a positive note about the crew, Concierge Karin is a very
hard worker who aims to please. I've read complaints online that
"she is never at her desk," but in reality this is because she is
constantly in motion, running all over the ship to take care of
guests. She is extremely accommodating and courteous, and the
majority of this crew would do well to model their behavior after
hers.
Cabin: We were booked in Cabin 0265, a Penthouse Suite located
aft on the Norway Deck. This cabin is spacious (the photos of the
living room area on the NCL website really do not do the size of it
justice) and generally well maintained. The bathroom is large, with
a separate glassed-in toilet closet (like many cruise ship WCs,
this one has a slight smell of sewage), a double-door-enclosed
shower, and a Jacuzzi tub that is large enough for a 6-foot tall
adult to lie down in. The bathroom has only one sink, however, so
washing up and shaving are a one-person-at-a-time affair. Lighting
is good in the bathroom, but one minor annoyance: you cannot turn
on just one light, say only over the sink - you must turn on all 12
recessed spotlights or none at all (kind of disruptive if you have
to get up in the middle of the night). In addition, it sometimes
took as long as 15 minutes to get hot water in the bathroom, so if
you are in a hurry, plan on a cold shower.
Closet space in this cabin is not as generous as one would
expect, especially for a 2-week itinerary. There are lots of
drawers, though, and a separate make-up table area in the
pass-through closet space between the bathroom and bedroom. The
bedroom is nicely-sized, with a very soft marshmallow mattress and
a separate set of glass doors that open onto the best thing about
this cabin - the generous wrap-around aft balcony, which features
room enough for two chaise lounges as well as a table and three
regular-size chairs. Watching the world go by on calm sea days
makes the investment in this suite worthwhile.
Negatives about Suite 0265: no coffee maker or kettle (let alone
the cappuccino machine advertised in most NCL literature describing
Penthouse Suite amenities), no in-room Wi-Fi, no extra blankets or
pillows without making a special request, and large tube-style
Panasonic televisions that are well past their prime, to the point
of being nearly unwatchable. A Sony DVD player with surround-sound
is outfitted in the living room, but I can't imagine blasting the
speakers while watching a movie from the onboard library. A
connecting door to the smaller balcony room next door would make
this an ideal suite for sharing with kids or another couple, but in
our case our neighbor used it for eavesdropping (as he made clear
while we were out on the balcony, when he leaned over the dividing
barrier and asked about things that had been discussed in private).
Beware: noise (and the odd piece of toast flying off a plate) is
also sometimes an issue from the Great Outdoors Café located
on the deck above - diners frequently drag their chairs (and
tables) as they jockey for position alongside the rails. One saving
grace during our cruise was that the cafe space above this cabin is
unusable in cold or inclement weather, so the noise factor wasn't
as bad as it could have been.
The Penthouse Suite comes with Butler Service - ours was a
rather shy man named Orlando. In addition to bringing ice (and
unpacking your clothes if you ask), the butler brings complimentary
canapés in the late afternoon and also delivers room service
orders (room service in this suite is a complicated affair in which
you call the room service number, they hang up, locate your butler,
and he calls you back to take the order and subsequently deliver
it). I had but one request of Orlando - to supply a bottle of
whiskey for evening drinks. I told him I understood that I would
have to pay extra for the alcohol, but he gave me a funny look and
informed me that I would have to pay for each shot in the bottle
individually! When I asked how that could be possible, given that
guests can purchase a dozen bottles of wine from NCL without a
"per-sip" surcharge. He just shrugged his shoulders and later I
received an explanation from the Concierge: It is supposedly a
(newly-introduced) fleet wide NCL policy that guests cannot
purchase a bottle of liquor onboard, even if they are willing to
pay an exorbitant amount for it - apparently because some guests
cannot be trusted not to drink it all at once (how this gets around
being able to drink a whole bottle of wine at once is beyond me).
In any event, it is nonsensical that a suite guest cannot request a
bar setup with a single bottle of liquor for the duration of a
two-week cruise.
Our Cabin Steward Fidel was perhaps the best we have ever had on
any cruise – he visited several times a day and our suite was
kept immaculate at all times.
Food: Overall, the food served on the NCL Sun is consistently
mediocre – poorly prepared, sloppily presented and more often
than not, reheated from a frozen state. Interestingly, during a
casual conversation with the Food & Beverage manager, he
revealed that (despite an itinerary with close proximity to some of
the best meat and seafood on the planet) none of the protein served
on the Sun is fresh. That's right - all steaks, poultry and seafood
items are shipped frozen to the ship from Miami because of
potential labor strikes from dockworkers and other food providers
in South American ports. It's unsurprising then that the resulting
meals are less than spectacular. One thing to remember when dining
on this ship – the service staff has been indoctrinated with
a set order in which to deliver food, and any deviations or special
requests (like a pre-dinner cocktail or an extra piece of bread
with your meal) cause confusion and turmoil. Service staff is also
not very competent, often mixing up orders and dropping food and
utensils - the crashing of plates, silverware and glassware onto
the floor is a constant in nearly every dining venue on the Sun.
The "Freestyle" concept really is kind of a joke – if you
don't plan ahead, you really cannot eat "whenever, wherever"
– walk-up to the desk of a specialty restaurant without a
reservation and you will get a blank stare and a "No!" Here then,
is a rundown of each of the restaurants onboard:
Concierge Lounge: Our first dining experience on the Sun was
lunch in the Concierge Lounge, set up in the Il Adagio specialty
restaurant. Warning signs that a bad meal was forthcoming appeared
right away: our waiter was shuffling his feet and singing to
himself, even while taking our order, and the tablecloth was
stained with food from a breakfast that had been served earlier
that morning. I asked for a Diet Coke and 20 minutes later received
a Beck's Beer in a bottle. I asked again for a Diet Coke, and this
time received a Pepsi in a can. After my third request for a Diet
Coke, our server informed me that they only have Pepsi on NCL
(first time anyone ever told me), so I said "Okay, let me have a
Diet Pepsi then." 42 minutes and $2.24 later, I received the one
and only soda that I had onboard. My lunch consisted of a Caesar
Salad that would be best described as a few leaves of Romaine
lettuce floating in two cups of salad dressing, followed by cold
and inedible hamburger "sliders" and French fries that were still
partially frozen. I skipped it.
Breakfast is offered in this venue as an amenity for suite
guests, and the service was admittedly better than this first meal,
but you have to know how to order. If you want a regular amount of
cheese on your omelet, specify "extra cheese," otherwise the omelet
arrives dry. If you want your English muffin toasted, you must
specifically ask for it to be done.
Teppanyaki: During the check-in process, Concierge Karin
encouraged us to make a reservation for the Teppanyaki specialty
restaurant, because "once everyone on the ship hears about how good
it is, you won't be able to get a reservation." We took her advice
and made a booking for our first night on ship. After our party of
four was seated at the 12-person grill, we placed an order for
cocktails. A couple of the requests (a gin martini, a blended
margarita) seemed to vex the waiter - a hunch that was proven true
when the drinks did not appear until 52 minutes later. After being
served soybeans, soup and a salad, our two teppanyaki chefs
appeared - making nervous jokes and fumbling a bit as they started
juggling knives and spatulas over the steaming hot grill. I had
just remarked to my brother-in-law that "This can only end
badly..." when one of the chefs lost his grip on a twirling spatula
and it sailed across the grill and hit my spouse square in the
chest, covering him in food and sauce. After he excused himself
from the table amid gasps from our fellow diners, the chefs
proceeded to juggle raw eggs, which they also dropped with splats
onto the floor. Everyone at the grill grew visibly agitated at
becoming the next victim, and I said, "Maybe we should stop the
juggling and proceed with the cooking." No one laughed. Neither did
I when my spouse returned and the maître d' failed to
compensate him for the $25 meal surcharge - instead she offered a
complimentary t-shirt cleaning (even though he was wearing a dress
shirt and dress slacks). The evening was ruined, as you can
imagine, but admittedly the food was fairly tasty (if diners can
manage to avoid wearing it).
Four Seasons: Our group of four encountered mediocre food and
very surly service in this main dining room (in fact we had a
running debate over whether the service is worse in the Four
Seasons or the Seven Seas - food is from the same kitchen, and only
the serving staff distinguishes the two main dining room venues).
Bland dishes like chicken breast with instant mashed potatoes and
frozen vegetables abound. On the accident front, I had a shrimp
cocktail spilled all over the table in front of me one evening by a
sloppy server.
Il Adagio: Dinner is reasonably good at this venue, which
specializes in Italian dishes. Order the simple things, like an
artichoke pizza, which is crisp and delicious. Service is sloppy,
however: it took more than 15 minutes for a server to appear on one
busy evening, and an additional 30 minutes to get glasses of water
to the table. The reason, according to our server: "We have to go
and find more water."
Le Bistro: Food and service were a bit above average in this
venue. The cassoulet was decently prepared, with slightly
overcooked but flavorful duck. The chocolate fondue was cold, runny
and inedible, and although the menu advertises Crepes Suzette
"prepared tableside," they are not, obviously for safety reasons
(but then why offer it in writing?). If you order selections from
the "International Cheese Trolley" for dessert, you'll receive a
few slices of American, Swiss and Bleu served along with a
plastic-covered packet of saltine crackers. Beware the extra
charges for certain menu items that are in addition to the
restaurant's $20 cover charge.
East Meets West Steakhouse: Food quality is slightly above
average here, with fairly attentive service (although we were
turned away in our first attempt to "dine whenever" at 7:30 pm
despite the fact that only two of the more than 35 tables were
occupied). Jumbo shrimp cocktails with a spicy sauce are a
pleasure, and the wedge salad is a classic that was enjoyable. Not
so great: gummy lobster bisque and defrosted steaks that were tough
and overcooked despite a request for "medium rare." On another
evening, to avoid the frozen steak, I ordered rotisserie chicken,
which was dry and tough. Again, beware of the extra charges beyond
the $25 cover – it's $10 more if you want that frozen lobster
tail with your frozen filet mignon.
Sushi Bar: If you like sushi this is actually one of the better
dining venues aboard the Sun. Although the fish isn't fresh, the
hand rolls are well prepared and suitably spicy. Service staff are
attentive and pleasant, a rarity on this ship.
Pacific Heights: Perhaps the worst of the specialty restaurants.
After a conversation with the Food & Beverage Manager, I was
under the assumption that this venue had been closed – but
what he really meant to tell me was that its partnership with the
food magazine ‘Cooking Light" has been terminated. And with
good reason: the Tomato Soup is like a can of Campbell's with a
spoonful of Cayenne Pepper thrown in, and the Mushroom Quesadilla,
seemingly filled with instant guacamole and slimy canned mushrooms,
is perhaps the vilest thing I have ever attempted to eat. After
ordering drinks, our server told us that the 40-minute delay in
their delivery was because "The bartender is in the bathroom." When
he finally returned to our table 20 minutes later with appetizers,
the waiter looked at us and scornfully said, "You switched places
on me!" We had not.
Buffet: Typical mediocre cruise-line buffet fare - nothing is
great, nothing is horrid. Some tips: you don't have to form a
single queue – go to the station that you want (there will be
howls of protest, but the reality is, this was set up for diners to
pick-and-choose from salads, entrees and desserts rather than
follow one singular line). During peak lunch times, head out to the
rear Great Outdoors area, which has a separate buffet queue
featuring salads, burgers, and desserts. As part of the buffet
breakfast in the Garden Cafe, waffles are cooked to order in the
Pacific Heights venue, and there is virtually no waiting –
probably because it is not advertised and you have to exit out of
the buffet, head towards the Sports Bar and make a right to get
there. You can also find freshly baked pizza (that is quite good)
at Pacific Heights during the lunchtime buffet service.
Entertainment: Live shows: The "Gaucho de la Plata" performance
was awkward and uncomfortable - the male "Gaucho" performer became
winded after his first bolo dance, then proceeded to make several
homophobic jokes in a row. Separately, the "Jean Ann Ryan Dancers"
are actually fairly talented...unfortunately the material they are
tasked with performing (especially choreography during the
Broadway-themed "Encore!" show) is clunky and uninspired. Their
"Cirque du Pan" show, a faux "Cirque du Soliel" retelling of "Peter
Pan" is the best performance of the lot – fun costumes, cute
sets and some impressive gymnastics and aerial acrobatics.
Bingo: The offering of every big cash prize came with an
asterix: "$5000 Jackpot! *If you cover your card in 46 numbers or
less." Isn't this a very low statistical possibility? Not even one
guaranteed cash Bingo jackpot during a two-week cruise?
Casino: Slot machines are like vacuum cleaners - 20 dollars on a
25-cent machine disappears in a flash. Tables were often empty,
with dealers staring blankly and singing to themselves. The casino
is closed while in Chilean waters (a significant portion of this
itinerary), and it seemed to be primarily used as a indoor smoking
lounge during inclement weather - the smoke is extremely heavy,
with little or no ventilation.
Shop: Despite a sign that excitedly proclaims "We have
everything you need! Toothpaste, Mouthwash, Toothbrushes!" - the
first two on that list were not stocked during the entire 14-day
cruise. When asked, a shop assistant shrugged and said, "We don't
carry toothpaste." Separately, several days before the end of the
cruise, the store manager encouraged me to take advantage of the
"Buy 2, Get 1 Free" port-themed t-shirt offer, because "They will
not be available for remainder of the cruise." The shirts were
observed on offer long after - in fact, all the way to the shop
closing on the final night.
Spa: I am an avid spa-goer, but having experienced the customer
service levels throughout the rest of the ship, I opted not to
partake of any spa treatments offered by the Mandara Spa. I do have
one anecdote regarding the staff, however. My spouse approached the
spa reception desk and inquired about getting a moustache trim in
the salon (a service advertised on the salon menu). The
receptionist told him "No, we don't do that." He walked away in
frustration. A few moments later, I approached the desk and asked
if it were possible to get my moustache trimmed. "Sure," the
receptionist said, "when would you like to schedule an
appointment?"
Enrichment Lectures: Presented by Assistant Cruise Director
"Szolt the Bolt," these featured sixth-grade level Power Point
presentations on such topics and the indigenous peoples and the
geology/geography of South America. He was unprepared to give the
scheduled talk on whales and wildlife, so he showed a video about
Alaskan whales instead.
Excursions: Here are details on excursions offered by NCL:
The Lagoon Bluff: Based on rave reviews, our party of four
reserved this Falkland Island penguin rookery excursion via the NCL
website more than six months in advance. Once aboard, we discovered
that the Excursion Desk staff had switched two of us to a tour time
that departed more than 30 minutes later. When I politely asked for
the new time to be switched back so we could travel together, the
manager of the Excursion Desk told me, "You can either take the
tour separately, or give me the tickets back…we have plenty
of people who want to take this tour." I told him that this was
unacceptable and to make it right. He eventually did, but every
time I saw him in the hallway, he averted his eyes and would not
speak to me.
Torres del Paine: A very long day that begins in Punta Arenas
and includes a bus ride to the airport, a flight in a rickety
Cessna plane (the windshield de-icers did not work and the pilot
flew blind for more than 15 minutes of the 40-minute trip), a
three-hour bus ride around the national park, a great Chilean lunch
overlooking a stunning vista at a lake, and a repeat flight on said
rickety Cessna. Embarrassingly expensive at just over $1000 per
person – NCL should be ashamed at the premium charged for
this tour, which ought to cost $500 tops. All that being said, the
beauty of Torres del Paine cannot be overstated. Torres is a
must-see destination that would be one of the high points of any
visit to Chile.
Lake Esmeralda and Petrohue Falls: A scenic excursion as
advertised, but expect to share your catamaran ride on Lake
Esmeralda with 400 other guests, and just try to get a solitary
moment (let alone walk on the trail) at the falls as 7 to 8 buses
release their passengers simultaneously. Lunch, served at an
estancia, was very good, and featured as an entree some of the best
salmon I have ever tasted.
In Buenos Aires, Peninsula Valdes, Ushuaia and Valparaiso /
Santiago we used private tour guides that were friendly,
informative and significantly cheaper than NCL excursions. If you
are interested in contact information, please send me a private
message and I will be happy to share details.
Bottom Line: Our 14-day cruise around South America on the
Norwegian Sun was a memorable one – the vibrancy of Buenos
Aires and Santiago are thrilling, and the natural beauty of
Patagonia is incomparable. Despite obtaining a significantly
discounted rate by booking via the NCL website more than a year in
advance, the nickel-and-diming that we experienced on the Norwegian
Sun made this the most expensive cruise we have ever taken (yes,
surpassing even a trip on the luxury line Crystal Cruises). And
unfortunately, our memories of the ship are plagued by visions of
incompetency and ineptitude that would be laughable if they hadn't
cost us a considerable amount of money to experience.
"Do you have any money left? No? Ha ha!" - Cruise Director Pedro
Cera, emceeing the final show of our cruise in the Stardust
Theater.