London -- Harwich We thought we were lucky to discover "cruise
trains" run by National Express, one per major sailing date this
summer. We stayed at the Hyatt Andaz one block from the Liverpool
Street Station, terminus for the "cruise trains" to Harwich. The
Andaz is a very high tech, mod version of the old Great Eastern
Hotel.
However, you can NOT count on the trains to run. Folks on the
previous sailing had no trains TO the ship per the online reviews.
We found out at the end of the cruise when they decided to work on
the tracks (some Brits told us that was a ruse -- they just didn't
want to pay the weekend labor). So now instead of a train to hold
all of us and 2 weeks' cruise worth of luggage -- they sent a bus.
Few could board that one. The next had no luggage hold -- so we
stood out there another 2 hours til busses could hold us and our
luggage.
Solution is to buy the ship's transfer. We balked at the price
but regret that now. Not worth doing it on your
own when you don't know the port and you have to rely on small town
transport.
Embarkation The train pulls up right next to the ship docks.
Easy walk of one long block or so. No steps or stairs required for
those so challenged. Some folks had paid no attention to the
luggage tags given out in advance by Celebrity so that caused a
hang-up as the porters had no clue who was coming or going, etc.
Read your instructions, folks.
We arrived around 1:00 and had no trouble checking in. Heading
up the gangplank was maybe a ten minute delay for security checks.
Printing up the paperwork in advance off the Celebrity website made
it smooth. We were greeted in the very attractive atrium by staff
bearing platters of champagne. Period. No water or sparkling cider
or juice. Everyone doesn't drink alcohol. It would have been nice
to offer everyone a beverage after traipsing all the way to the
coast and having paid lots of money for this cruise. Minor
complaint.
Stateroom 6087 Easy to find. Mid-ship. Balcony was nice and felt
more private than some on other lines. Well designed. Tasteful,
clean, modern look - nothing garish or too mod. Bathroom is THE
best of my ten cruises. Perfect sized shower for a non-suite
category. Love that the shower curtain is affixed to the wall at
one end so water can't easily flood the floor. Soaps provided.
Hairdryer provided. Shaver outlets provided. Combination
shampoo/conditioner in shower dispenser. Bathrobes provided.
Umbrellas provided (and never used - hooray). One gifted canvas
shoulder bag for going ashore. Ice bucket filled twice per day.
Less movies on the tv than in years past unless you now want to
pay. We never lost CNN coverage on this itinerary. Also some CBS
comedy shows, sports and lots of ship info channels. View the
enrichment lectures on upcoming ports from the comfort of your
stateroom.
Cabin Attendant Fabian The best of my ten cruises. Service is
what makes Celebrity so special, in my opinion. I also love the
look of the ships, the cleanliness and the food - but the service
overall is just so nice. Esp. after last sailing on a Holland
America ship with an intentionally antagonistic F&B manager.
And a cabin attendant we never knew the name of. Celebrity is
number one in my book for service so thanks again Fabian.
One of the special things he did for us was to re-arrange the
beds. They were not separated as we had requested. Nor had they
been at the $500 a nite Andaz in London. No biggie so long as
corrected before bed. What we changed after the first nite was keep
Patty's bed adjacent to the bathroom and move the head of my bed up
against the verandah window. This was the fix for my snoring that I
am told penetrates right thru the ear plugs. Put the couch between
the two beds so it all fits. Then the couch looks straight out the
verandah rather than a side view so some folks would prefer that
anyway. Each nite I pushed the heavy glass coffee table against the
sliding glass door so I wouldn't hit it en route to the bathroom.
The only thing I couldn't do in that configuration was use the
bedside lamp. No biggie. And now I could peer out the window at the
moon, bridges, islands, etc. Loved it.
Dining One of the reasons I love to cruise. Somehow I managed
not to gain my usual pound per day on this one. Perhaps all the
walking in Russia helped. We had the early seating for dinner. Very
nice room as far as visuals. Not conducive to chat though. Noise
level too high with so many folks coming and going and tableware
clanking. Service was very pleasant but an occasional mistake in
getting the right dish to the right patron. You could always choose
from a standard selection menu if nothing appealed to you that
night. New York steak, Caesar salad, etc. Nice backup plan.
Had some lovely entrees -- fish and steaks are certainly good
enough for me. Midwestern tastes and not a gourmet. Willing to try
the chilled fruit soups and some other rarities and enjoyed them.
Everyone at our table agreed the soups are the best course on
Celebrity - hot or cold - try em all. People seemed to concur that
the seafood was high caliber. Loved the fish but can't testify to
any shellfish myself. Pork chop one night was so juicy and tender.
One woman at our table charmed the waiter into bringing an extra
entrée for the table to share when we had trouble making a
decision. Several nights people ordered a second serving of the
entrée - and the plates were never left empty. We were quite
pleased. Baked Alaska for the final formal dinner (of three). Nice
coconut and exotic fruit desserts the other nights were superb.
Four of us went to the OceanLiners restaurant for dinner in
memory of my mom's birthday. The room is dedicated to grand liners
of the past, with panels from the Ile de France on one wall and
display cases of historic ship memorabilia in the mosaic tiled
foyer. Perfect way to sail out of St. Petersburg, dining to harp
music, light in the air (sunset at nearly 11 p.m.) and the table
surrounded by four or five handsome fellows so they could serve
each course in unison to their eager patrons. Patty said it was the
best steak she has had in her life. My fish dish was delicious.
They added a free appetizer. Free petits fours. You felt very
satisfied for this elegant change of pace one special evening. The
$30 sounds steep but was worth every penny. I loved my chocolate
soufflé. May I order one by mail??
Here is the menu for you to start salivating over: Starters:
Classic Lobster Bisque, Tomato, Red Pepper & Mozzarella Soup,
Caesar Salad, Salad of Diced Vegetables and Lobster, Smoked Salmon
with Tuna Carpaccio, Twice Baked Goat Cheese Souffle, Frog Legs
Provencale, Escalope of Foie Gras Normandy, Chilled Asparagus -
sauce Gribiche. Entrees: Whole Dover sole Meuniere (YUM-O), Grilled
Filet of Sea Bass, Scallops & Lobster, Magret of duck with
sliced pears, Rack of Lamb in Puff Pastry, Large Shrimps Flambee,
Saltimbocca alla Romana, Risotto al Funghi, Tenderloin Steak Diane.
Cheese: A selection of Fine French Cheeses, apples, grapes and
walnut bread. Desserts: Zabaglione with marsala, Coconut
Crème Brulee, Chocolate Souffle, Chocolate and Orange
Segment Mousse Cake, Light Lemon and Lime Mascarpone cheesecake,
Ice creams and sorbets, bite-size surprises, coffee and petits
fours.
From the sublime to the not, my reality check for Celebrity
F&B folks. Room service quality has gone way down. Not only has
the portion size decreased a third, the quality has too. The
pepperoni pizza was decent, the tuna sandwich passable, the chefs
salad not. The cookies are good. Beverage selection meager. I know
- with all that good food in other venues, why whine about this? In
certain ports, odd timing and all - you really need something
delivered on occasion. One GOOD thing about room service in 08
versus my last Celebrity cruise in 04, you can now get the deluxe
dinner from the main dining room menu. Just let your cabin
attendant know before dinner service has begun. That was nice. Room
service otherwise needs improvement.
Buffets were better than in past. More variety. Salads seemed
more inventive here than in the main dining room. Lots of fresh
fruits and cheeses. LOVE the POG - passion fruit, orange and guava
juice, as well as lemonade in the self serve dispensers next to the
iced tea, coffee, and water. Omelet station was very popular and
for good reason. Also high quality for the waffles and French toast
served at the rear of the other dining lines. Had some delicious
BBQ and beef dishes worthy of the main dining room. Very nice
quality overall. A healthy spa cuisine option at their end of the
deck. The pool area right outside the main buffet has burgers, hot
dogs and tacos. Also potato salad, other salad fixings too up until
6 pm daily. Or was it 5?
One downside re: buffet service -- some of the guys did not have
the English skills to tell me what I was ordering. This happened
more than once. They smiled and tried - but I really couldn't grasp
what was being served and no identifying labels out front in the
dessert section in particular. Ah well -ate it anyway! Separate ice
cream areas were very popular. Several exotic fruit and non-sugar
options to choose from as well as the usual favorites. Cups or
cones, your choice.
My overall take on the food this cruise, I am very pleased. When
about 50 pct. of what I taste is delicious, and another 25 pct.
very good - I can easily forgive the remainder being average or
even on rare occasion just not worth having. The one area I would
skip in future was the do it yourself pasta bar. Once they add the
veggies- you have an inch of water in the bottom. But again, I
focus on the 50 pct delicious mark and ache to return when I am so
fortunate. On the other cruise lines, I am afraid they hit
delicious maybe 10 pct of the time. Not Celebrity. YUM.
Public Areas Lumping a lot of things together here for brevity
so I can cover the Shore Excursions at more length on this
port-intensive cruise. The theater is top notch - great lighting
and sight lines. Well attended. Some of the solo acts were world
class - the man who played Phantom in Australia, the gal who did
Evita in the West End, classical musicians from top circuits in the
world. Entertainment gets a high mark. The regular show cast has
very talented singers and dancers - well choreographed, lavishly
costumed, and most shows a real winner. The Broadway show rates 8
or 9 out of ten. The finale from around the world had dancers doing
Irish and Can Can and Russian and Jazz - well done. Singers do
Verdi arias as well as heartfelt national tunes. The aerialists
were of the Cirque de Soleil genre and a big hit. The Latin theme
show was not quite up to the same level. How many Ricky Martin
numbers can one endure. There is only one Ricky and he wasn't on
board, sorry to say.
Spa was wildly popular. Nice facilities. Hard to book so don't
delay once you get onboard. One fun feature was a silent auction
near the end of the cruise. You can bid for any spa treatments,
including the teeth whitening at a bargain price. Women looked
great coming out with their hair and nails done.
Lounges were very tasteful, pleasant music, nice art throughout
the ship -- some of it a bit too modern for me but most of it quite
interesting and well positioned. Shops had some fun events -
Russian fashion show and "spot the fake amber" and so on. They
brought out lots of Russian dolls,hats,chocolates,jewelry, etc. so
you had plenty of shopping opportunities right on board.
Disappointed in the highly touted arboretum. They're silks, not
live flowers.
I went to one of the ship's free classes. Most now come with a
charge. Dino was very good with explaining how to store your photos
online at home with various programming tips. Class was full so
book early.
Casino had a lot of jackpots coming and going. I had the feeling
I would hit my mom's favorite numbers on keno on her birthday. And
sure enough, I put in $60 and all five came in for nearly $800.
Tasty treats on trays in the casino late nites - but that does NOT
make up for the lack of a midnight buffet. None - all gone. Kaput.
The previous sailing had the final one under new policy. I know we
are all eating less, and being more green and so on - but not ONE
on a 2 wk. premium cruise? When they announced the ice carving
display near the pool it felt like a slap that they still show off
these skills but with NO buffet?? Sigh -- an unexpected change.
Shore Excursions/Ports Amsterdam: Been numerous times before so
I didn't get off. I was lazy that day. Also we were given the
impression the ship was far from the Central Station and central
area I was familiar with. Our view was of modern apartments and
minimal dock facilities. Once we went up to the buffet (an hour
before sailing away) I could see we actually were close to some
interesting ship museums, etc. and not so far away for one to walk
it. Sigh. This was an ongoing source of frustration. Various staff
members would guess how far we docked from port cities and some
were so far off base, I'd prefer they had said they just didn't
know. I like to get off and do some exploring on my own even though
I also bought tours in every port. You might as well buy the ship's
shuttle passes with the exceptions of Copenhagen, Tallinn and
Stockholm. An easy 20 minute walk can get you somewhere in those
ports, esp. Copenhagen where you are just 10 min. from the Little
Mermaid along the water.
Warnemunde: We bought the ship's excursion to Berlin. Train was
within easy walking distance from the ship. Chaos in the main
theater where ALL the Berlin tours were to gather simultaneously.
Why they didn't deploy some in the other empty areas of the ship I
don't know. Casino was closed, the lounges were closed at 8 a.m. so
split things up rather than having 1500 people walk down one aisle
of the theater to get boarding passes. Other ports were less of a
madhouse but it was a bad start to the day. The train was
satisfactory - rather crowded. Not as much leg room as I recall on
trains in Europe. Coffees, water and fruits were dispensed as part
of the $300 tour. We chose the tour that included luncheon at a
brewery, a riverboat tour, a bus tour by Checkpoint Charlie, and
walking near Charlottenburg Palace, the main shopping street with
KaDeWe, the Brandenburg Gates and the Reichstag. Walking rapidly we
could barely see all of this interesting city in the time given. 3
hrs each way by train - a nice big German lunch served family style
- platters of sausages, two kinds of potatoes, and apple strudel -
very nice. A snack bag on the train ride home and the ship buffet
served late for us. A good but tiring day and a nice intro to
Berlin.
Stockholm: One of the great things about this port was getting
there. The ship comes off the Baltic Sea into the archipelago of
thousands of islands at around 3 a.m. For our sailing, the full
moon was shining across the water so I had to sit up and gaze.
Docked around sunrise. A rather difficult 20 min. walk to the main
part of old town but I had some shopping to do in one of the
countries of my ancestors. What made the walk tricky was winding
thru an industrial port that isn't clearly marked while they build
a new cruise port there. Also building a large ABBA museum there
for future cruise patrons to enjoy.
Across the water you can see their small version of Tivoli
Gardens, the Vasa historic Ship Museum, etc. Expect some sticker
shock given the poor exchange rate of the US dollar. Scandinavia is
costly. Think Switzerland. COSTLY. But you can still pick up
trinkets and candies, etc for a few bucks. We took the Waterways
tour in the afternoon. Leaves right from the ship's dock. Walking
past the bow we got doused with water. The crew didn't realize
anyone was walking there as all the other tours and paths into town
left mid-ship. We complained and in typical Celebrity good customer
service, they gave us free dry cleaning for those outfits. Several
people with mobility problems had chosen this tour since they
didn't have to board a bus. It was still a challenge as there was a
short but rather steep gangplank. The crew helped and everyone made
it -- but just barely. Out on the water for a couple hours got
nippy (we didn't have any rain in 14 days -- or the snows that hit
St P in mid-May, but it is NOT a warm weather cruise). Saw the old
hotels and palace downtown, the newer housing area where they built
an "Olympic Village" but never got the bid from the IOC, and some
really lovely large buildings along the waterway. Not an earth
shattering port but very nice to look at and worth exploring. Again
-- the sailing out was great to watch -- dining on the verandah
with a sweater on was perfect. Never knew about the Swedish
archipelago but a very pleasant surprise to have seen.
Helsinki: Loved Finland. Just the whole north woods, clean air
look and feel of the place. Very attractive and outgoing people.
Nothing in the way of a skyline -- it's not that type of city. Nice
sized port -- too far to walk into town on your own. The buildings
are low rise and modern as the oldest building dates back just to
1740 or so. They only used wood to build at that point and it just
didn't survive for long. We chose one of the "specialty" tours that
day. We went out of the city to HVittrask, the home of the leading
architects of early 1900's. The one that Americans will know best
is Saarinen, whose son also became famous in the US after they
emigrated. They designed the classic Pan Am building at JFK, the
Dulles airport outside D.C., and the St. Louis Arch. They had a
large studio and several homes in a compound out on a lake with
birch and pine trees north of the big city maybe 20 miles. The home
has some great design features of course, built on 7 levels within
a 3 story home. Very nice for those with any interest in seeing
some of the countryside as well as the design aspects. We then came
back into town, the guide pointing out the old train station and
other buildings done by the same trio of architects, the new
Concert hall, the old Cathedral built by a friendly Czar (Peter the
Great?). You then had the option of staying in town to shop. I
wanted my buffet so back to the ship we went. And thus we found
something you too might enjoy. Across the parking lot from our dock
were two little souvenir shops with nice books, art and some
clothing for sale. They took any currency -- dollars, euros,
pounds, and that would turn out to be rare in other ports. And they
had a little P C set up and I thought maybe they let you surf
online for a few Euros -- but it was FREE. So rather than pay what
the ship charges, do a quick check of mail, etc. online there. I
had seen one opportunity like that in Stockholm at the 7-11
grocery, but not free, about 3 Euros for a half hour.
St. Petersburg: At last. This was what it all builds up to, two
days in this historic capital of arts and politics of the old
Russia. We learned early on how serious they were about the "visa"
situation. There was a souvenir shop across the parking lot from
the dock. Thinking it was similar to Helsinki, and we could just
stroll across, we tried but were thwarted by the frowning guards:
"Russian visa?" No. "You can't go." Okay -- we tried. I took an
afternoon tour while Patty rested up for our big night in town. I
went on a tour of the Russian Museum and the Church on Spilled
Blood. There were very few tours left once we boarded in Harwich,
so I advise you go right away if you have any special tours picked
out. Most will sell out in every port. We later learned there was a
board on the counter stating which were sold out, which took
waiting lists, and which (rarely) had been cancelled (lack of
sufficient interest). The interactive TV in your stateroom allows
you to book right on the screen. The info would sometimes make it
look as if it were sold out but if you went to the desk you could
sometimes still get booked.
The day we docked was the biggest festival of the year in St P.,
commemorating the city's birthday anniv. Why did someone NOT know
this in advance? Our tour bus could not cross the parade route. We
could not walk across the parade route. Had someone thought of this
in advance, the tour could have been moved to morning, before the
parade route became an issue. Needless to say it was chaos, We had
to walk an extra mile, then go through a packed sidewalk crowd of
parade viewers for blocks, walk under the street via a Metro
tunnel, back up, and then towards the Museum. The museum was worth
it but we lost about 1.5 hours of tour time and were panicked about
getting back in time for the grand evening tours. Loved the museum,
displaying all these grand Russian artists we had never heard of.
Really a pleasant surprise, other than the parade fiasco of course.
Then we strolled across a park right to the Church on Spilled
Blood, a work of art itself. This was built on the actual site of
the Czar's shooting in the 1880's. He was standing next to the
canal and so they had to build out into the canal to make room for
this stunning church to be built, housing a shrine to him on the
actual spot where his blood spilled. The church is made of millions
of mosaic tiles all the way up to the onion domes, depicting
Biblical scenes. Some of the walls are made of stunning
semi-precious minerals jasper and rhodolite -- like a poor man's
emerald and ruby. Really wonderful to see the inside of this place.
And shopping nearby afterwards.
That night was the piece de resistance. We did the tour that you
MUST try and do. So many people later said they wished they had
gone. It was a Night of Splendour at the Hermitage, with the climax
being a private ballet performance in what was Catherine's private
theater. Two busses of people from our ship were the entire crowd
that night. So approx. 75 lucky people were given a private tour
thru all four main buildings of the Hermitage Museum, seeing all
the highlights without spending hours crushed between other tour
groups. Mind you, we were the second sailing of the season, so
there were 4 large ships in town. By the height of the season, that
grows to 7 ships. Any chance you have to see any palace without the
throngs, DO IT. We only wish we had an extra nite so we could have
done the other grand evening event at the Summer Palace as it was a
madhouse the next day. After seeing the Michelangelos and Raphaels
and rooms full of impressionist masters, we were treated to the
ballet -- seven vignettes from the great ballets. Most were danced
as a pas de deux, some solos, and also the flanking 8 swans for
Swan Lake in addition to the prima ballerina.
Fantastic orchestra, awesome dancers, and in that special
setting -- what a night to remember. We walked out to see the sun
still in the sky at 10 p.m. and many crowds for the Festival night.
We did the nine hour tour the next day entitled Pushkin and
Peterhof. This allowed us to see both Summer palaces -- the first
in the Czars Village 20 miles south of St. P. This is the blue
palace -- nearly destroyed by Nazi bombs. The majority of arts and
ceiling panels were evacuated far into the countryside and thus
preserved. The amazing Amber Room panels are still missing. What
you see now is a replication. Stunning. Great palace to see -- but
the crowds, and the walking are starting to get to us. Then our
guide wants us to see one more garden, one more statue. Very nice
and enthusiastic girl but the audio system didn't always work and
we were weary long before Peterhof, the next Palace out on the Gulf
of Finland. If you read the tour description, you expect to walk
around 2.5 or 3 miles -- forget about it. We had to walk double
that by the time we got thru all the upper gardens, lower gardens,
inner gardens and the truly comical and impressive fountains Peter
built to amuse himself. This is the yellow palace with the Cascades
flowing behind. You must put on these little booties to tour
inside. And some folks slipped. The floors are slick and we were
tired so it was a real challenge. We did get some good prices on
souvenirs from hucksters outside. The old dark "fur" hats and
souvenir scarves and postcards, all about half what the ship
charged. (The ship did have very nice shops and not terribly
overpriced really.)
So there was much to see -- and whether you did a Celebrity tour
or the private tours, we all want to come back and see more of St
Petersburg and Russia. The included lunch was bland -- they put out
some caviar and vodka to dress it up -- but the rest was not close
to what we had become accustomed to on the Constellation.
Tallinn: Okay it was interesting. Mind you we have just seen St
Petersburg. Why we thought this little palace tour here (we chose
the Upper Town tour) would be of any interest, I don't know. The
old town was quite something -- the best preserved fortress walled
town I have ever seen. More than a dozen of the huge towers still
standing guard over the old town. Medieval church full of coats of
arms was interesting. The palace -- not so much. This was the spare
Motel Six palace I think -- only for passing thru Estonia or
harboring a mistress or whatever. A few nice paintings, a nice
chandelier, some truly nice gardens yes -- but after Peterhof,
sorry. Pick another tour. Shopping in Estonia was a challenge. They
just stared at my VISA card -- not seeming to know what one would
do with it. This was in the premier modern shopping mall mind you,
not some goat stall. The only place I could actually make a
transaction was at the post office so I could mail some cards with
their postmark. The ship charges TWO DOLLARS per foreign stamp --
any country, and in some countries that really is the going rate --
but in others like Estonia you save if you get your own. The ship
will mail them when they pass thru that country again if you miss
the deadline -- so they could still have the postmark of your
choice -- just two wks. after you disembarked. Russia and Estonia
-- best prices. Some places took all currencies, some only took
their local monies. Hard to know in advance so be prepared for
anything. Except VISA in Estonia -- they don't know what it
means.
Copenhagen: Loved the place. The most expensive place but still
great just to walk around -- great old buildings, great new
buildings, friendly people. Amazing Tivoli Gardens. (amazing that a
medium diet Coke was 7 dollars US, ouch) Definitely buy the ships'
transfer as it includes the admission and the bus back. I walked
the 75 min. back cuz I had not purchased it. And it's a long hike.
The Gardens were full of stage performances, a variety of
restaurants and rides and shops and great lighting and flower
designs. Don't miss it. We did another specialty tour here, to the
village of Dragor. Historic farming village out 15 miles or so
along the sea. No cars allowed in their narrow streets so you could
see thick thatched roofs, huge flowers blooming, wondrous old style
homes, and also the ship that was used to smuggle Jews across the
sea, one or two at a time lying in the back of this inauspicious
little fishing boat. Loved strolling here for an hour or so. The
tour included coffee and a pastry -- they don't call them Danish in
Denmark, but instead "Vienna bread" and good it was. Then back
through the very modern airport area of high speed trains and
apartments and finally back through the old town of palaces and
museums. Unfortunately our table mate was among 3 women who were
pickpocketed here on the palace tours. Throngs of people pressing
against you and all the victims had zippers unzipped on backpacks
or bags. One man was also prey in either St P or Tallinn -- his
cargo pants zipper was undone and the wallet taken. The guides were
constantly warning us to watch our surroundings in St P and we were
fine. But the guide in Denmark said that professional criminals bus
in to target the crowds in summer and then again at Christmas
markets. Otherwise it is the 2nd safest country in the world, after
Iceland. Non-violent snatch and grabs but not a happy day for
some.
Disembarkation Couldn't be smoother. People were off the ship
early actually. Didn't do us any good given the lack of train
service but nothing Celerity could have done other than beg us to
buy their transfers. Actually we were still pondering that as Patty
wasn't walking that smoothly after the Russian hikes -- but the
ship cuts off those sales a couple of nites before the cruise ends
-- so be forewarned.
What more to say. Loved the ship. Loved the cruise line. Loved
the ports. Was it perfect? No, of course not. But I wish all
cruises were this nice -- and that I could go more often. Keep up
the good work Celebrity, but bring back a midnight buffet every
couple of weeks okay?